I have posted this on MHIII and thought it would be useful for UK members on here.
Whilst I was still using Amazon I bought a set of micro drill bits. The brand name was Gunpla. Needless to say Chinese made but the set of 10 were very well engineered. However care has to be...
Last post
Micro bits are a really problem. I bought a set from an electronics store, which sells them for work on circuit boards, etc. Given this, you'd think they'd stand up to drilling through plastic like butter. Not so. Most snapped within a few uses. If you waver very slightly off...
Hi to all. I have just applied my first self-made decals and I'm quite happy with them 8-) .
I've bought a 10-sheet pack of laser-printable clear decals (European A-4 format), followed the instructions and -voilà- here are the serials for my RAF Maryland and P-40b, the U.S....
Last post
But does Custom Hobby Decals still do custom work? And how do we contact them? :?
From the internet:
MRP paints are acrylic lacquer
Mr. Color has a line of solvent-based acrylic paint
Hataka Orange Line are lacquer based paints .
Are there any compatibility issues using these different brands on one model?
Specifically, working on a SAAF Mirage III...
Last post
If you are airbrushing, I wouldn't have thought there was an issue. I have found that SMS lacquers appear to have a hotter solvent than do Hataka, but airbrushing one over the other hasn't caused any issues ... yet. Mr Color should go down fine, but my preference would be to...
This may be old news but I found this the other day. Guide to mixing FS colours using Tamiya acrylics
Last post
I still use their clear coat rattlers and the panel line stuff. I just found that there were major variations in basic performance criteria - opacity, viscosity, drying time, gloss, adhesion - from one bottle to the next. Certainly nothing like the consistency I remember back in...
I have just put in an order for some Blue Stuff thermoplastic mould making material. If you have not see this stuff, you dunk it into boiling water and can then mush it together like plasticine. When it cools down, it sets. Not rigid but stiff enough to take an impression.
The...
Last post
I had had a lot of experience with RTV rubber moulding and yes it is very good and I found it quite easy to work with and prepare parts both in white metal and resin. The benefit of Blue Stuff is it is reusable. I once made a mould from the plastic bits of a certain well known...
Help!
Since AJMM's lovely build of the FoxOne Lysander FoxOne have switched to 3D resin printing, which, having bought one, to my mind, is not necessarily a positive move. I have built one or two resin kits before and I think that the 3D printing resin is more brittle than the...
This is one part of modelling that I've never really cracked yet. When it comes to the small 'finishing' parts such as undercarriage doors, weapons, fuel tanks, open canopy etc and after they're all painted up, which type of glue do you tend to favour to bond them?...
Last post
Cheers! Some great tips there. I do use Kristol Klear occasionally but never thought of using it to temporarily attach a canopy while painting. What a fab idea!
LF the best way to remove the backing from a vacuum form canopy:
Internet sources say sanding, cutting (single edge razor and scissors) and scoring.
Additionally, use Blu Tack to support the canopy shape while removing the backing.
The vertical cuts don't seem to be too...
Last post
Looks like another visit to my friendly neighbourhood beautician! :P
Just bought a few sets of Hataka acrylics. I went for the Blue Line paints ( Optimized for brush painting ) on the basis I will need to use them for touch up work as well as general painting.
I looked on the Hataka website and was looking for guidence on thining the paint for...
Last post
Like was posted, definitely use Hataka's thinner. However, I go one step farther and add Future to the mix. Gives the paint a little more strength , especially when it comes to masking. It just means it needs a little more time to cure. But worth it in the end.
as many asked me on how to achieve the weathered TPS look on my Tomcats I`ll start an instruction here.
For this instruction we will do a very beat up Tomcat and a not so bad Super Hornet.
- Step 1: Reference Photos. For most builds I do not target one...
Last post
This step by step is very interesting. I will definitely use it!
Can anyone suggest the appropriate Revell Aqua paints for a classic USAF Vietnam scheme? Although I like Revell's paints for the coverage and ease of use both spray and brush, their naming - Mouse Grey, Dust Grey etc - leave a lot to be desired.
Has anyone tried one of these? They get advertised as Wireless but as you can see they have a small rechargeable compressor with the airbrush attached direct to the compressor. No aircans or cluttering pipes etc. They sound too good to be true. Especially at approx £50.00 They...
Last post
Have you had a chance to use this and any feedback? Planning to get one of these soon.
to improve my airbrush setup, i wanted to have a spraybooth to ease the work and reduce flying sprayfumes.
but i dont have 150 or 200 euro's for a purpose built station thats would be too small anyway, so i decided to build one myself. for the materials themselves, it costed me...
Last post
I have a similar large plastic tub. I line the inside with cling film (saran wrap for the non British) and strip it off and chuck it when it gets too badly stanined.
I dont have an extractor fan yet but may try to cobble something together using an old dustbuster vacuum...
Some time ago I read on the forum various tips for detaching sprues from resin parts.
Hot, cold, cutter, scissors, prayer etc, but nothing really conclusive (at least for me) and this operation remained the worst moment.
Until I found this saw....
The blade is:
- very rigid, so...
I recently bought a few of Kits World bases including the RAF Conningsby and RAF Mareham as well as the Tyndall AFB taxiway. The print quality is excellent and are large enough for either a couple of smaller aircraft, a larger type or a set up with ground support equipment. Got...
Last post
The layer glued on oposit dide works if is done contemporary with gluing the right side.
I don't say that won't work in second time but probably is better to prevent than to repair.
If the material which you stick is selfadesive, maybe is enough that on the oposit side of...
Hi,
I would like to know which decal solution works best on Liliput Airforce decals. I have access to Gunze, Micro and Ammo Mig
And if they have any particularity to be noted.
Ordered some sets prior to being discontinued.
The other question,
About best glue for Gashapon.
I...
Last post
hi,
I think they are made out of ABS or some other form of thermoplastic. ALL CA and 2 part epoxy glues will work. some other 'special' glues will also work (just google 'ABS plastic glue'). Plastic 'styrene' glue will NOT work.
Being serious for a second, and this is not limited to 1/144, has anyone used a dremel tool as a rudimentary lathe ? I have seen a few articles on the internet but most have a fairly complex jig fashioned whereas I am not looking for...
Looking for a recommendation for a good acrylic clear flat product in a spray can .
I use Model Master and Xtracolor enamels and some Mr Color (lacquer) paints.
I use Future (acrylic gloss coat) for a base coat for the decals (except for the Xtracolor enamels).
I like the...
Last post
Really? I had that white fogging with their older cans of Matt varnish a few years ago but never had any issues with the latest ones I have bought. I do now that Humbrol seems more sensitive to humidity however.
By the same measure I have never had any issues with Plastikote...
OK this is an odd one. I came across a YouTube hobby video the other day where they used Dettol antiseptic to strip acrylic paint from a wargames figure.
Not something I have tried myself and am reluctant to experiment with any models such as F-Toys or Cafe Reo. Frankly it...
Last post
Definitely not if you are a cane toad self-medicating for COVID ... :P
And yes I have read the MYK site explanations but its a kind of lost in translation thing. For example he refers to Career film. I am assuming he means Carrier Film.... but given the process for MYK is so far from the standard Dip Slide (Softening Solution) Dry a clearer...
Last post
Tony, you might remember where I used MYK decals. I think the key is not to get overenthusiastic and try to remove the clear carrier too soon. It's been a while since the Kikka and I had to re-read what I and others had written. All I can say is that my approach - whether it was...
I am thinking of upgrading my airbrush. At present I am using a Revell Master Class Vario which I have had no problems with (other than the usual constant maintenance issues).
I have been using the standard propellant cans but recently they have become harder to obtain...
Last post
If you want a cheap compressor, you can adapt one from an old fridge from the scrapyard I've heard.
My first AB was a cheap one from Evilbay. A Chinese replica (0,3mm nozzle, sidefeed cup), just to learn the trade and stuck with it for over 10 years. Recently I've upgraded to...
Not sure whether we've gone down this route before (forgive me if I'm wrong - dementia is kicking in), but I was wondering about the existence of ultrafine wire, and rigid at that. As you know, I tend to use Ms Uschi's for my aerial wires. I also know there are plenty of you who...
Last post
I'm curious as to why you need it to be rigid?
I prefer elasticity, not only because you don't have to cut to exact lengths, but it also gives a degree of resiliance to mishandling more rigid stuff doesn't.
I was given rigid wires, specifically intended for a 1/72 Starfighter...
Not sure if this is the right place for this but...
Recently been looking at the Army Painter Speed Paint range and equivalent Citadel Contrast paints. These are intended for use on gaming minis especially figures. The idea is that you undercoat the figure with a light...
Last post
These would be the wrong paints for model washing as is. They are designed to still have a color on the higher parts - lighter than the recesses, but still colored.
Citadel makes washes. They are useful for highly detailed parts that you want to add shadow to, like landing gear...
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests
Forum permissions
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum
»
»
»
»
